SALT PRESERVED CITRUS.

Although we are in the first days of spring, I still see some beautiful and unique citrus varieties. My favorite citrus to preserve as of late is Yuzu. I meant to post this during prime Yuzu season (late December through January), but I never put pen to paper. Sadly, the Yuzu season is over, so bookmark this for early next winter. ; ) Many other bright citrus choices are available all year. Most of us have seen preserved lemons in stores or specialty markets. If you have ever traveled to Morrocco, you have probably spied great barrels of them in local markets. They are used often in Middle Eastern dishes. I reach for my sparkly jar of preserved lemons when cooking many times a week. Salt-preserved citrus is one of the best umami flavors out there. While it's relatively easy to find in a shop, it’s incredibly easy to make at home. I often make preserved lemons from Meyer lemons because the skin is a little thinner and the juice sweeter. In the past few years, I have been salt-preserving any citrus I can get. This is where my Yuzu obsession began. The process is simple and is the same for any variety of citrus. After a few months, when the preserved citrus is ready, I take a few from each jar and puree them in my food processor to a thick, citrusy, salty umami paste. I have stockpiled everything from Limequat to Calamansi to Oro Blanco to Yuzu. I love having preserved citrus to tuck into a stew or a Tagine and preserved paste to spoon into butter and sauces.

It's truly a culinary treat to have these delectable umami flavors at your disposal, whether preserved citrus or citrus paste. Preserved citrus paste is gaining popularity; several varieties are available in the market. Making some jars of your own couldn’t be easier. The possibilities are endless once you start experimenting with these incredible citrus varieties. Now, where do I source all this citrus? If I'm on the West Coast during winter, my first stop is the farmers market. I always carry an extra Baggu Weekender to pack my clothes and fill my suitcase with citrus. I particularly enjoy the Marin Farmers Market in Northern California and the Santa Monica Farmers Market in LA. In New York, I ordered from Natoora and my friends at Bhumi Growers, a specialty citrus grower in New Jersey. I also ordered from Nicholas Family Farms. This year, while exploring the new Wegmans at Astor Place, I unexpectedly stumbled upon a treasure trove of Yuzu. You never know where you might find unique varieties, so keep your eyes peeled and ask your West Coast friends to send you a box of citrus; they are literally falling off the trees!

Another pantry staple I use a lot is Yuzu juice. It's the secret to the most divine salad dressings and sauces. It is a little pricey, but I love the floral sweetness of Yuzu juice and the sour punch that differs from lemon. I usually purchase mine at Sunrise Japanese Market in Soho, but you can find it at most Asian specialty shops. Kalyustians here in NY sometimes have it frozen. When shopping, look for one pure Yuzu juice, as some brands may add other citrus and citric acid, altering the unique flavor profile of Yuzu

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While cruising through Instagram the other day, I came across Camilla Marcus, founder of Westbourne, talking about preserved Yuzu juice in California ( YUZUCO ). I am intrigued and can't wait to try it. The more options on the market, the better, and the easier it is to write something like Yuzu paste or juice into a recipe.

I leave you with this easy salt-preserved citrus recipe.

I will soon be sharing some ways I use it in my cooking.

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Salt-Preserved Citrus 

One of my favorite meditative activities is preparing salt-preserved citrus. While I try to do this on a snowy day at the height of the citrus season, plans don't always work out that way. I sometimes, throughout the year, find that I have a plethora of citrus left over from a shoot. More and more salt-preserving citrus has gone from a winter activity to an activity anytime I have an abundance of citrus. It feels like alchemic magic. Over time, the salt mingles with the juicy citrus, and the fruit softens. My go-to for every day preserved lemons is Meyer, but lately, I have been experimenting with any variety I can get my hands on. Yuzus has replaced Meyer in most recipes, calling for preserved citrus. Meyer lemons have thinner skins than regular lemons. I find they soften in the salt more quickly. Yuzu might take a few weeks longer than Meyers to soften up fully in the salt brine. The same goes for any thicker-skinned citrus such as Oro Blanco or Etrog. I prefer a bay leaf in each citrus but feel free to play around with spice or heat. Pink peppercorns and chili are nice additions. When the lemons are ready, remove any seeds and buzz a few in the food processor. The thick, glossy paste adds salty, briny brightness to any dish; I love it spooned into my lentils to cut the richness of rich pork and added to fish, crudo, and sauteed greens.

Makes 1 quart (1 L) 

6 to 8 Meyer lemons, preferably organic or (any other citrus you feel inclined to experiment with; the method is the same)

8-10 lemons, preferably organic

1 cup (230 g) kosher salt

6 to 8 bay leaves

Sterilize a 1-quart (1 L) glass canning jar. 

Cut the Meyer lemons lengthwise into quarters, leaving them attached at one end. *This process is the same for any citrus you are preserving.

Use as many lemons as you can fit in the jar. Juice the remaining lemons (you will need about 2 cups/480 ml juice). 

*When preserving any other citrus, do the same and cover them completely with lemon juice.

Pack the interior of each Meyer lemon with kosher salt. Add a bay leaf to each Meyer lemon and tuck the lemons into the canning jar. Add lemon juice to cover the lemons completely.

I use plastic lids for my preserved citrus. Metal lids corrode and ruin your citrus. I have found that even when adding a layer of plastic wrap before screwing on the lid hat, the salt may still start to eat away the metal lids over time; you don't want the jars to get rusty and spoil your hard work.) 

Store the jar in a cool, dark place to let the lemons ferment; turn the jars every few days to keep the salt evenly distributed. They are ready in 1 month but will keep indefinitely if they are refrigerated after opening. It is normal for salt-preserved citrus to lose its vibrant color over time and take on a darker appearance.