PICKLED CHERRY CLAFOUTI
Cherry season is almost over, so I wanted to post this before it is!
Cherries are one of the first summer fruits to arrive at the market, and they are the ones that tell me summer is really here. When I was a kid, we had a small cherry tree in the backyard, and if we could beat the birds to the fruit, we did, and we put up a few precious jars. This recipe holds onto that same impulse. First you pickle a batch of cherries with cardamom, mustard, and two vinegars until they are savory, a little salty, and sweet, then you bake a jar of them into a soft custard sweetened with maple instead of sugar. The pickling makes more than you need for one clafouti, which is the point, since the extra jars keep in the refrigerator for up to two months for tarts, yogurt, or a sharp cheese. If you miss the cherries, you could make this with halved sugar plums, or gooseberries or even halved apricots; the pickling liquid and process stay the same.
SERVES 6, with extra pickled cherries
INGREDIENTS
PICKLED CHERRIES
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons black mustard seeds
5 cardamom pods, cracked open, pods discarded, seeds crushed
2 cups / 480 ml apple cider vinegar
2 cups / 480 ml rice wine vinegar
2 cups / 400 g organic sugar
1 tablespoon pink Himalayan salt
2 pounds / 900 g sweet cherries, about 2 quarts
CLAFLOUTI
1 quart jar pickled cherries, about 2 cups / 400 g once pitted, liquid and spices reserved
½ cup / 65 g all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon pink Himalayan salt
¼ cup / 60 ml maple syrup
1 cup / 240 ml heavy cream, plus more for serving
5 large eggs, at room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla extract, or the seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the dish
Creme fraiche or softly whipped cream, for serving
METHOD
Start with the pickled cherries. Bloom the fennel, mustard, and cardamom seeds in a dry saucepan over medium heat, shaking the pan, until fragrant. Transfer the bloomed spices to a large pot, add both vinegars, the sugar, and the salt, and bring to a simmer, stirring until the sugar has fully dissolved.
While the liquid heats, wash and de-stem the cherries, leaving the pits intact. Bring the liquid to a quick boil, then turn off the heat. Drop in the cherries and let them sit uncovered until the liquid has cooled completely, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, lift out the cherries and pack them into sterilized 1-quart jars. Bring the liquid back to a quick boil and reduce it to a more syrupy consistency, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and pour the hot liquid over the jars, leaving ½ inch / 1 cm of space at the top, dividing any remaining seeds evenly between the jars. The cherries are ready to use once cooled, and any you do not bake with will keep in the refrigerator for up to two months. For longer storage, process the jars in a hot water bath according to the recommended USDA time.
When you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375°F / 190°C. Drain one jar of the pickled cherries, reserving the liquid and spices. Pit the cherries and set them aside in a bowl.
In a large bowl, sift the flour, then whisk in the salt and maple syrup until you have a smooth, semi-thick batter. In a second bowl, whisk together the cream, eggs, and vanilla. Slowly add the flour mixture to the cream, whisking until the batter is smooth and pourable.
Butter and flour a 9 to 10 inch / 23 to 25 cm baking dish. Arrange the cherries in an even layer across the bottom. Slowly pour the batter over the fruit, taking care not to shift the cherries as you go, then drizzle the melted butter over the top.
Bake until the custard is set and the edges are golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Spoon some of the reserved pickling liquid over the hot clafouti and serve right away, with a pour of cold heavy cream, a dollop of creme fraiche, or softly whipped cream.
